Wild Atlantic Way
An exhilarating 13 Day Jouney along Ireland’s West Coast
An epic journey created for a family of adventurous travelers, around Ireland and along the Atlantic Coast from Cork to Donegal. We chose a South to North direction on the Wild Atlantic Way because the sea is always on the passenger side, the better to enjoy the views. On the first and last days we travel from and to Dublin, with stops and visits along the way. This itinerary is just highlights, there were many other places visited, detours taken and a couple of rearrangements made due to inclement weather.
I just wanted to thank you again for an amazing adventure. This was, without a doubt, our best vacation ever! We’re still processing everything we experienced!
Day 1
Dublin – Kilkenny -Cashel – Midleton – Kinsale
- We’ll pick you up from your hotel in Dublin for an early start.
- In Kilkenny, once the capital of Ireland, you can walk the Medieval Mile, from the famous castle to St Canices Cathedral. Along the way drop into to Rothe House, a restored merchant’s house, and the Black Abbey, with its stunning stained glass windows.
- The Rock of Cashel was once the seat of the Kings of Munster and later an important ecclesiastical centre. It sits dramatically on high ground overlooking the town, as it has for over a thousand years.
- We’ll drop in to the Midleton Distillary, where you can opt for a tour watching whiskey being made or indulge in a tasting guided by a whiskey expert.
- Finally we reach Kinsale, a fishing town with some excellent restaurants and the official start of our Wild Atlantic Way adventure.
Overnight in Kinsale
Rock of Cashel
Dunlough Castle
Day 2
sCHULL – mIZEN hEAD – Sheeps Head – BAntry
- From Kinsale we’ll take the coast road to Schull, a popular sailing centre known for its small shops selling the work of the many artists and crafts people who work in the area.
- Then an important destination, Mizen Head, for an exhilerating walk over a bridge to the most southerly tip of Ireland – we’ll hit the Northern tip in 10 days.
- Dunlough Castle is the most hidden of hidden gems. Dating back to 1167 it is one of the few standing dry stone walled castles in Ireland. It’s an easy 25 minute walk from the road but well worth it for the views alone.
- Drivng down narrow Sheeps Head peninsula we’ll pass though Ahakista where there is a memorial to those killed on the Air India flight that crashed here in 1986.
- From Kilcrohane we’ll cross the mountains to the Goat’s Path, a narrow coastal road with magnificent views over Bantry Bay.
- Bantry House, on the shores of Bantry Bay, has been lived in by the White family since 1739. The gardens, in some parts unrestored, are a real treat, with terraces, formal beds, a walled garden, and 3 cannons pointing over the bay.
Overnight in Bantry
Day 3
gLENGARRIF – Garinish Island – Beara Peninsula – Healy Pass – Kenmare
- Glengarriff is beautifully set between mountains and sheltered bay at the top of the Beara Peninsula.
- From the harbour a short boat trip takes you to the famed island garden on Garinish Island, planted to take advantage of the unique microclimate in the area. Don’t miss the original Martello Tower and the less original ‘Grecian’ temple with its amazing views of the Caha Mountains.
- Heading down the Beara Peninsula we’ll reach Castletownbere, a busy fishing port with pubs and restaurants serving fresh off the boat fish. We’ll be there in time for lunch!
- Nearby you can catch Ireland’s only cable car to Dursey Island, it’s an exhilerating ride. The waters around the island are wild and are frequently visited by dolphins and whales.
- We head to Kerry through the Caha mountains via the Healy Pass. The narrow road rises to 332m as it winds between the mountains with hairpin turns, steep climbs and spectacular views over mountains, lakes, Bantry Bay and the road we just traveled.
Overnight in Kenmare
Healy Pass
Valencia Island
Day 4
Ring of Kerry – Ballinskelligs – Valencia Island – Kilarney
- We start our journey around the Ring of Kerry by heading along the coast via the pretty village of Sneem to visit Staigue Fort, the largest of Ireland’s ring forts. Built between 300 and 400BC its 13ft thick walls served to protect the local Chieften, his family and followers who lived within from any attackers,
- On to Ballinskelligs, where we’ll stop to visit the chocolate factory because, well, why not?
- From nearby Portmagee we cross a bridge to Valentia Island. In 1857 the first working transatlantic telegraph cable, between Valentia and Heart’s Content in Newfoundland, was completed. The story of how that happened is told in the old Cable Station.
- As we continue up the north coast of the peninsula towards Kilarney we’ll stop to enjoy the views over the Lakes of Kilarney.
Overnight in Tralee
Day 5
Fenit -Ballybunion – Kilrush – Doonbeg – lahinch
- Fenit is a popular hub for leisure craft, fishing boats as well as commercial ships. On a boat trip from the harbour around Tralee Bay there is every chance you’ll spot dolphins and if you’re really lucky other marine mammals.
- Ballybunion is most famous for its world class links golf courses and long sandy beaches with caves to explore. Golfers know what to do, while for non-golfers a relaxing soak in the hot seaweed baths at Ladies Beach will sort out any tired muscles.
- From Tarbert we leave Kerry behind and take a ferry to Kilrush in Clare. We’ll visit the impressively restored 2 acre Vandeleur Walled Gardens, with its vibrant formal planting – but be careful not to get lost in the hedge maze!
- On the way to Lahinch we’ll pass through Doonbeg, where you might catch a glimse of one of the Trump family who regularly visit their hotel and golf resort there.
Overnight in Lahinch
Fenit
Dun Aonghasa
Day 6
Cliffs of Moher – Doolin – Aran Islands – Lisdoonvarna
- Our first stop today is at the majestic Cliffs of Moher, rising high over a wild stretch of Atlantic shore. Safe walkways along the edge make for a refreshing (sometime very refreshing indeed!) walk past stunning views.
- In nearby Doolin catch a ferry to the largest of the Aran Islands, Inis Mor, where you’ll spend most of today. The 800 people who live on the Island mostly speak Irish as their first language but are delighted to tell visitors about their home place in English too. The best way to explore is to hire a bike on arrival.
- Dramatic Dun Aonghasa, parts of which date back to 1100 BC, is built of up to 4m thick dry stone walls now semi circular but originally a closed oval shape before many centuries of cliff erosion.
- Other places to see include the Wormhole, a unique cliff formation used in the past for Redbull Cliff Diving competitions, and the ancient Seven Churches dotted around the Island. And the coast, the views, the tiny stone walled fields and so much more.
Overnight in Lisdoonvarna
Day 7
Burren Tour – Kinvarra – Galway
We reach the half way point along our Wild Atlantic Way adventure today!
- The Burren an area known for its rocky terrain, remarkable flora, thousands of archaeological sites and deep caves.
- Black Head is a wild and remote place with an unusual scenery of steep limestone mountains and rocky coastline. There are magnificent views – across the bay to the Connermara mountains, out to the Aran Islands and up to Galway city.
- The Poulnabrone Dolmen is a portal tomb which has stood here since Neolithic times – nearby medieval Carron Church seems almost modern by comparison. We’ll drop by the Burren Perfumery to watch them create scents, soaps and candles, all by hand. They also make terrific scones!
- At Ailwee Cave, you can go deep under the Burren into limestone caves with underground rivers, huge chambers and really impressive stalagmites and stalactites.
- Finally on to Galway city via the lovely village of Kinvarra, where you’re likely to see the traditional local sail boats, known as Galway Hookers, in the bay.
Overnight in Galway
The Burren
Kilary Fjord
Day 8
Clifden – Connemara Tour – Kilary Fjord – Louisburgh – Westport
- We start the day driving through the heart of wild and rugged Connemara to Clifden, beautifully nestled between the Twelve Ben Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean
- Beautiful Omey Island, with its remains of a medieval monastery, is accessible only at low tide – we’ll try to time it right!
- At Kylemore Abbey. a former boarding school and convent, there is a Neo-Gothic Church, a Mausoleum and wonderful Victorian walled gardens.
- Board a boat at Leenaun to sail between mountain ranges on the crystal waters of Killary Fjord, Ireland’s only glacial fjord..
- Louisburgh, home of legendary Pirate Queen, Grace O’Malley, is a mecca for watersports and has some of the most beautiful beaches in Ireland.
- On the way to Westport we’ll pass by Croagh Patrick, an historical place of worship and pilgrimage associated with St Patrick, and stop at Murrisk where you can take in the view over Clew Bay and its more than 100 tiny islands.
Overnight in Westport
Day 9
Castlebar – Pontoon – Nephin – Ceide Fields – Enniscrone – Sligo
- The National Museum of Country Life tells the story of how rural people lived in Ireland between 1850 and 1950, with fascinating displays covering life in the home to how people worked on land and water.
- Pontoon sits at the point where Lough Conn and Lough Cullin meet, both famous for their trout and salmon fishing.
- Next we head through Nephin National Park, an enchanting landscape of high mountains, fertile valleys and deep lakes.
- Ceide Fields has the oldest known stone walled field system in the world dating back 6000 years. The excellent vistor centre tells the story of its discovery and what’s been learned about those who lived there.
- Enniscrone is known for its links golf course, seaweed baths and long sandy beach – a great place for an evening stroll.
Overnight in Sligo
Pontoon
Benbulben
Day 10
Drumcliff – Lissadell – Killybegs – Glencolumbkille
- Drumcliff is the final resting place of the poet WB Yeats. His grave in the cemetery at St Columba’s church bears the famous epitath “Cast a cold Eye On Life, on Death. Horseman, pass by.”
- Yeats was a frequent visitor to nearby Lissadell House, home at the time of the Gore-Booth family. The famously beautiful Gore-Booth sisters include Constance, an Irish revolutionary, and Eva, a poet and suffragist.
- As we travel on we’ll pass the foot of Benbulben, its unusual form due to the movement of glaciers during the ice age, and Killybegs, a natural deepwater harbour that’s home to Ireland’s largest commercial fishing fleet.
- In Glencolumbkille we’ll stop at the Folk Village. A careful replica of a coastal village, it includes several thatched homes as well as a school house and a tiny pub/grocer.
- Slieve League Cliffs are almost three times higher than the more famous Cliffs of Moher and, though very different, just as spectacular.
Overnight in Glencolumbkille
Day 11
Kilclooney – Gweedore -Glenveagh – Rathmullen – Buncrana
- At the start of the day we’ll stop at the Kilclooney Dolmen, one of Ireland’s largest with a 6m capstone, dating back 3000 years.
- Gweedore, famed for its music and culture, is at the heart of the Donegal gealtacht (an Irish speaking area) and is the home place of Enya.
- Into the wild rugged landscape of Glenveagh National Park, dominated by Errigal, the highest peak of the Derryveagh Mountains.
- Now ruined Dunlewey Church, at the foot of Errigal overlooking the Poisoned Valley, was built by a grieving widow for her husband.
- Glenveagh Castle was built in the 1860s by Irish born John Adair. It’s said a curse on the castle, after he evicted 44 families at the end of the famine, meant neither Adair or any subsequent owners ever had heirs. Still, it’s a lovely place to visit.
- Our final drive takes us along the shore of Mulroy Bay to Rathmullan.
Overnight in Rathmullen
Kilclooney Dolmen
Malin Head
Day 12
Buncrana – Mamore Gap – Malin Head – Lough Foyle – Derry – Raphoe
- We start the day by catching a ferry across beautiful Lough Swilly, passing Inch Island, to Buncrana on the Inishowen Peninsula.
- Now a military museum, Fort Dunree was built as a strategic defence during the Napoleonic wars and later used by the British Army during WW1. It was finally handed over to the Irish Defence forces in 1938.
- Rising to 250m with views over Lough Swilly, the Atlantic and long valleys, Mamore Gap is a wonderful drive.
- Finally reaching Malin Head, we have now officially travelled the full length of Ireland!
- Passing though a series of pretty villages along the west banks of Lough Foyle we see a very different Donegal, one of green fields and fertile farmland.
- We cross into Northern Ireland to visit Derry. A fascinating and historic city that has experienced much tragedy. A walk along the city walls is highly recommended.
Overnight in Letterkenny
Day 13
Omagh – Bru na Boinne – Dublin
- Time to leave the Wild Atlantic Way and head back to Dublin.
- The Ulster American Folk Park tells the story of emigration from Ulster to America in the 18th and 19th centuries. Built around the homestead of Thomas Mellon, with many other restored original buildings, demonstrations, agricultural displays and farm animals it is a great place to visit.
- A World Heritage site, Brú an Boinne is famous for the spectacular prehistoric passage tombs of Knowth, Newgrange and Dowth which were built circa 3200BC. The tombs contain the largest collection of megalithic art in Western Europe.
- Finally Dublin, where we must bid farewell.
Brú an Boinne
Map of the Places we Visited
This is a long journey, over 2000km, spanning the length and breadth of Ireland, much of it on narrow and twisting roads, with many remote places visited. Driving the Wild Atlantic Way yourself means you’ll miss a lot along the way while concentrating on driving and navigating.
If you’d like to talk to us about doing this tour, or some sections of it, with our experienced driver/guides we’d be happy to help.
Milford, County Donegal, Ireland